L’ Patron lacks spice, vision
Like a Quentin Tarantino movie, my visit to the new Logan Square taqueria L’ Patron started out charming, unfamiliar and quirky. But, unfortunately, also like a Tarantino movie, it ends in chaotic disaster. There were high expectations. Owner/cook Ernesto Gonzales, who is cooking with his brother Cesar at L’ Patron, is a Kendall college alum and a veteran of Rick Bayless’ Michelin-starred gourmet regional Mexican restaurant Topolobampo. And yet, even with such promise, I probably should have known better. A cartoonish sombrero-clad, mustachioed Pancho Villa-like dude wearing a vest of
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